Calvin Klein Resort 2009

It was a little Issey, a little Chessy—as in Miyake during his eighties heyday, as in Rayner dressed in Madame Grès. In other words, Francisco Costa said "pleats, please" for Resort. During today's mini-show, a scaled-back presentation that suits the season well, the Calvin Klein designer used the technique on everything from icy-hued dresses with kimono sleeves to his modern take on that Grecian workhorse, the toga. A python motif also, ahem, snaked throughout, whether literally, in a white sharply cut, high-collared coat, or subtly printed on dresses or cleverly embossed on a khaki trench. Though understated, simple resin belts and teetering, strappy sandals added necessary edge. Unlike last season's swimsuit-inspired line, this was a collection for city streets—not a single bikini in the bunch

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