Fyodor Golan: Spring/Summer 2012

Fashion Fringe award 2011 winners are design duo, FYODOR GOLAN. Established by Colin McDowell in response to the need to support young talented designers in London, the 2011 judging panel saw a mix of key industry opinion formers including designer Roland Mouret and super model Claudia Schiffer and see’s FYODOR GOLAN follow in the footsteps of previous winners Basso & Brooke and Erdem. 

The designers SS12 collection entitled ‘Flowers of Evil’ inspired by Charles Baudelaire’s poems introduced another worldly presence of nymphs and nature. Laser-cut dresses and cropped jackets appeared in soft, nubile white leather featuring hummingbird silhouettes, and creeping fauna and flora.

Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman are the designers behind the creative label FYODOR GOLAN. Fyodor Podgorny is half Latvian, half Russian whilst Golan Frydman is Israeli with Moroccan and German Roots. Golan moved to London for the prestigious Istituto Marangoni, initially receiving fine arts education in Israel, Fyodor attended the distinguished Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp before moving to London where the two met. 

Their previous experience includes Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons, Richard Nichol and Dries Van Noten where the duo accumulated a wide collection of skills, which would later lead to the launch of their own label FYODOR GOLAN in 2010 and their consequent win of this years Fashion Fringe 2011

Pleated organza created sheer panelling and pretty feathered shoulders, emphasising a dark and dreamy innocence to the collection whilst silk trousers were slim fitting and elegant, worn high on the waist and tailored. 

Fluid shifts and the designers sultry signature floor sweeping gowns were blanketed with laser cut silk circles, each one individually hand sewn on, whilst intricate embroidered flowers crept onto gauzy tulles with a burst of colour, coursing from canary yellow, poppy red and emerald green through to purple and fuchsias, revealing and concealing the body lending texture and a sense of drama throughout. 

Jewel encrusted spines sparkled and twisted up backs, whilst couture techniques were combined with modern, high-tech methods of laser cutting and leather engraving reapplied onto net and black duchess satin to create organic shapes on the body. 

Expressive brushstrokes and fauna prints in citrus yellow and green appeared big on silk-jersey throughout offering a dedicated commercial capsule range for the modern woman.